Ingredients to Know

달팽이 분비물 여과물

Snail secretion filtrate (SSF) is the filtered mucus produced by Cryptomphalus aspersa or Helix aspersa snails. It contains a complex matrix of glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, allantoin, and antimicrobial peptides. A 2013 randomised controlled trial published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology found SSF significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, and the appearance of fine lines after 12 weeks. Its wound-healing properties are attributed to allantoin, which stimulates cell proliferation, and the glycoproteins, which support the extracellular matrix. SSF is one of the few K-beauty ingredients with robust clinical trial data — not just in vitro evidence.

병풀

Centella asiatica (cica) is a herbaceous plant used in Ayurvedic and traditional Korean medicine for centuries. Its key actives — asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid — are collectively known as total triterpenes of centella asiatica (TTCA). Multiple peer-reviewed studies confirm TTCA's ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, reduce inflammation, and accelerate wound healing. A 2016 study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology demonstrated that madecassoside specifically inhibits the inflammatory cascade triggered by UV exposure, making cica a powerful post-sun ingredient. It is particularly well-suited to sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin.

나이아신아마이드

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is arguably the most evidence-backed ingredient in skincare. At 2–5%, it reduces sebum production and minimises pore appearance. At 5–10%, it inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing hyperpigmentation without the irritation associated with hydroquinone. It also upregulates ceramide synthesis, strengthening the skin barrier, and has demonstrated anti-inflammatory effects comparable to topical clindamycin in mild-to-moderate acne. A 2021 meta-analysis in the International Journal of Dermatology reviewed 14 clinical trials and confirmed niacinamide's efficacy across all these mechanisms. It is compatible with almost every other active and suitable for all skin types.

갈락토미세스 발효 여과물

Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process, first identified as a skincare ingredient when sake brewery workers were observed to have remarkably smooth, youthful hands despite their age. GFF contains vitamins, amino acids, organic acids, and minerals in a highly bioavailable fermented form. Clinical studies — including a landmark trial by SK-II — demonstrate significant improvements in skin texture, radiance, and moisture retention with consistent use. Fermentation increases the molecular weight reduction of active compounds, allowing deeper penetration than their unfermented equivalents.

히알루론산

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan naturally present in the skin's extracellular matrix, capable of holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Skin HA levels decline with age and UV exposure, contributing to the loss of plumpness and elasticity. Topical HA works best when applied in multiple molecular weights: high-molecular-weight HA (>1,000 kDa) sits on the surface, forming a film that reduces TEWL; low-molecular-weight HA (<50 kDa) penetrates into the epidermis and dermis. The most effective K-beauty toners and essences contain a spectrum of HA molecular weights. Apply to damp skin and seal immediately with a moisturiser — HA applied to dry skin in low-humidity environments can draw moisture from the dermis rather than the air.

세라마이드

Ceramides are sphingolipids that make up approximately 50% of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum. They act as the 'mortar' between skin cells, preventing water loss and blocking environmental irritants. Ceramide levels decline with age, UV exposure, and over-cleansing, leading to a compromised barrier characterised by dryness, sensitivity, and increased reactivity. Topical ceramides — particularly ceramide NP, AP, and EOP — have been shown in multiple studies to restore barrier function and reduce TEWL. They work synergistically with cholesterol and fatty acids; the most effective formulations include all three in a ratio that mimics the skin's natural lipid composition.

아데노신

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside found in all living cells. In skincare, it functions as an anti-ageing active by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis in fibroblasts and inhibiting the enzymes (matrix metalloproteinases) that break down the extracellular matrix. A 2005 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology demonstrated that 0.1% adenosine significantly reduced wrinkle depth and improved skin elasticity after 12 weeks. It is approved by the Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety as a functional ingredient for wrinkle improvement — one of only a handful of ingredients to receive this designation — and is found in a wide range of K-beauty serums and moisturisers.

프로폴리스

Propolis is a resinous compound produced by bees from plant sources, used to seal and protect the hive. It contains over 300 identified compounds, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and terpenes, many of which have demonstrated antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. In skincare, propolis extract has been shown to accelerate wound healing, reduce acne-causing bacteria (C. acnes), and provide significant antioxidant protection against UV-induced free radical damage. Korean propolis products — particularly ampoules and serums — typically use Brazilian green propolis or Korean propolis, both of which have strong clinical profiles.

쌀 발효 여과물

Fermented rice water has been used in Korean and Japanese beauty rituals for centuries. The fermentation process produces kojic acid, ferulic acid, and a range of amino acids and vitamins that brighten skin tone, inhibit tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for melanin production), and provide antioxidant protection. Modern K-beauty formulations use standardised rice ferment filtrate with consistent active concentrations, addressing the variability of traditional preparations. It is gentler than hydroquinone or arbutin for brightening and has an excellent safety profile for long-term use.

쑥

Mugwort (쑥, ssuk) is one of the most deeply rooted ingredients in Korean herbal medicine, used for centuries in teas, baths, and topical preparations. Its key actives — artemisinin, flavonoids, and volatile oils — have demonstrated anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties in multiple studies. In skincare, mugwort extract calms redness and irritation, making it particularly effective for sensitive or reactive skin. It also contains high levels of vitamin E and beta-carotene, providing antioxidant protection against environmental stressors. The 2020 K-beauty trend for mugwort-based toners and essences was driven by clinical evidence, not just tradition.